Fashion Forward
When man first skinned an animal to create an article of clothing, fashion was created. The better the hide, the better the warmth, and possibly, the better the appearance. As civilizations have evolved, so has the fashion. Beginning with the first Native Americans in the United States, clothing has become an essential part of who we are. For some, it is believed to signify status and wealth, and to others, wearing clothes is just something we have to do, what is worn is not a primary focus and carries no importance. But how far have we come in fashion? From man wearing animal pelts, some women being topless, women being subjected to corsets and stays, and full length dresses, and men wearing tights and full coats, we have surely come a long way.
Native American Fashion from 1400 to 1800
Early Native Americans
Early Native Americans clothing was very limited. Many tribes wore animal skins and furs, along with other handmade items. The women wore dresses or even went topless and only wore leggings and skirts. If they did choose to wear dresses, many of the women would use nettle fibers to make the soft clothing, that was commonly worn under their dresses. The native men wore breechcloths which went over the belt. Very rarely would they wear shirts, only when it would get cold. When it was cold, both men and women would wear a fur skin over them to stay warm. Sometimes the skins were limited, which led to many not wearing the hides frequently, some even went without clothing. The shoes they wore were moccasins or mukluks, depending on the weather. Headresses made of feathers and beads were often worn as well.
Early Native Americans clothing was very limited. Many tribes wore animal skins and furs, along with other handmade items. The women wore dresses or even went topless and only wore leggings and skirts. If they did choose to wear dresses, many of the women would use nettle fibers to make the soft clothing, that was commonly worn under their dresses. The native men wore breechcloths which went over the belt. Very rarely would they wear shirts, only when it would get cold. When it was cold, both men and women would wear a fur skin over them to stay warm. Sometimes the skins were limited, which led to many not wearing the hides frequently, some even went without clothing. The shoes they wore were moccasins or mukluks, depending on the weather. Headresses made of feathers and beads were often worn as well.
Men's Fashion
As time progressed, and the European settlers began to settle into the "New World", some Native American tribes began to trade with the new settlers; as a result some of their style began to emulate that of the new settlers. When trading would take place items such as coats and gloves, beads, wool and linen, were exchanged. Also available was paint, which often was used on their face.
The different aspects of his attire had a purpose, not just for fashion. The earrings he wore could hold his pipe. The face paint could represent his emotions both good and bad.
The "Roach" or headdress, seen in this image, was made of turkey feathers and was important to the man, and held much significance.
The items the tribes would trade were often hunted, the skins of the animals were what the settlers accepted in payment for their goods.
Tattoos were common to the tribes as well. They used them to signify valor, hide injuries, even to help heal or alleviate pain. This, in many ways, differs, to the reasons, people get tattoos today.
The different aspects of his attire had a purpose, not just for fashion. The earrings he wore could hold his pipe. The face paint could represent his emotions both good and bad.
The "Roach" or headdress, seen in this image, was made of turkey feathers and was important to the man, and held much significance.
The items the tribes would trade were often hunted, the skins of the animals were what the settlers accepted in payment for their goods.
Tattoos were common to the tribes as well. They used them to signify valor, hide injuries, even to help heal or alleviate pain. This, in many ways, differs, to the reasons, people get tattoos today.
Women and Children's Fashion
Native American women, similar to the women of today, had a more feminine appearance in the way they dressed. The dresses they wore were now having paint added, that was gained through trading with the settlers. They often accessorized with sashes, earrings, and necklaces, which is still a very common practice today. In this image, a spoon that was also a traded item, is shown around her neck, which was kept there for easy use.
Early Colonial Fashion from 1700
Early settlers that migrated to what is now the United States, and first settled into the colonies, brought along with them their traditions and their fashions. Some clothing was very conservative, due to their religious beliefs, some clothing showed the wealth that the owner had, then there were those that came and had very little, so their clothing displayed that as well.
Men's Fashion
The men's clothing consisted of many parts. The shirt he wore was used both during the day and at night, and would be worn for several days, sometimes weeks, due to the limited amount of shirts he owned, usually without washing it. Given the length of the shirt, he would often tuck it in between his legs and then place his breeches over it. The breeches were the name of the pants that he would wear, somewhat similar to the capris women wear today. In addition to his pants, he wore stocking held up with ribbon or leather straps, which were known as garters. Then his waistcoat was worn over the shirt and breeches, then he could accessorize with a kerchief around his neck. The man's shoes here in this image, would be considered quite nice during this time frame, and would not be used for everyday. To top off the ensemble, he would wear his coat which was often made of wool and had numerous buttons, the coats were made to where he'd be able to ride a horse with it on. In addition to this coat, a hat made of wool would be worn, and in colder weather he could also wear his "great coat", also commonly made of wool.
Women's Fashion
Women's Fashion consisted of even more layers. They wore shirts similar to the men's, but they were a little longer. They wore stockings also held up by garters. The kerchief they wore was worn along with their stays. The stays provided the small waist, and provided the right posture, that a lady in that time frame was to maintain. In addition to their posture, they helped the women handle the weight of many things, such as children, buckets, or other items commonly carried in their daily routine. These stays could be made of whalebone or even wood. Underneath her dress, many petticoats would be worn, more would be worn if it was cold. She then would wear her gown over these items. Pockets were not part of the gown, so were made separately and worn underneath the gown. A cap was also worn to keep hair away from the face, especially during cooking. Just like the men, the shoes they wore had no right or left and could differ depending on the occasion. Outside of the gown, many women would would carry their sewing kits, usually consisting of scissors and ball to place their needles. When it was cold, the women did not wear coats as the men did, rather they wore capes that went over their clothing. Mittens were also used and were usually made from wool. In the final image of, she is carrying a basket which was used to carry goods, or other personal items. The usage of this basket, is similar to how we use purses now, but much more basic.
Similar to the women's clothing little girls also had to wear stays, however their's were smaller, but help to provided prepare them for the larger ones they would have to wear, as they got older.
The Late 1770s Male
Due to the American Revolution, the men's attire changed. The pants became more sensible, they were longer and often were repaired many times and had signs of those repairs. The hats the militia man wore were a thinner felt material and not as big as the ones more traditionally worn. The militia men carried with them a blanket roll, a canteen, a haversack, and a pack basket. Many of the items they carried on them were to help them in a possible battle.
Many of the items the men wore, reflected his involvement with the American Revolution. Here in these images, the powder horn is shown, which carried his gun powder, and his musket is also displayed.
The woman's attire didn't change as much. However busks were added, these were made of wood and put in front of the chest, to keep from bending over and also created a "rounded shape that was fashionable".
The "Big Day"
One reason women were able to dress up was for their wedding day. In the 1700s, the idea of a white wedding dress, was not yet the "color" a wedding dress should be. In this image a wedding dress is shown, which included the gown as well as petticoats.
The Introduction of Slaves
As slaves were brought to the early colonies, many were taken from their countries and brought, with nothing else but what they had on. Many were stripped of what they had when they arrived. The clothing that was provided to many of them was just a cloth, similar to the ones Native Americans wore. The first image shown here, displays the cloths they were given. The second image shows how their clothing evolved. The clothing the slaves owned, was mainly for work purposes. Their clothes were to basically keep them clothed, while providing the manual labor they were brought to the United States for. It was very basic, and for many, very tattered and torn.
Clothing in the 1800s
Women's clothing continued to evolve, becoming more modern, for the time, and for the wealthy displayed much elegance. The wealthy had more options to their clothing, and the types of material that were used. Such as silk, taffetta, and intricate embroidery.
The items used in dressing were still the same. The images here display the different items used to dress for the day. A cap which was used to cover the head when styling the hair wasn't an option. Hats were also used, often put on top of the caps, to add style, they were made of different types of materials, and worn different ways. The gown was usually dressed up with ruffles added to the sleeves of the gown, usually at the elbow, they could be made of lace or with multiple ruffles, depending on the look of the dress. Finer shoes were worn when nicer dresses were worn. When it was cold muffs were used to keep the hands warm. These were placed in front and made of fur, cloth, or feathers, and the hands were placed inside to keep them warm. The nicer the garments, the more wealth was displayed.
What's under that dress?
The stays evolved as well as the dresses. The makeup of stays changed fabrics and how they were constructed. The insides were made usually of linen, and to create the support, boning was used, going up and down the bodice. The outside of the stay could be made of finer material such as silk, but for the more common person, linen. The purpose for the stay differed depending on the woman wearing it. For the woman who had to work, it still provided much support. For other women, it was used to aid in a more appealing shape. In addition to the stays, petticoats were also still worn. They provided an additional layer, or were used to close the gap in front of an open front gown.
The Three Piece Suit
A man's suit consisted of his breeches, waistcoat, and coat. The waistcoats became shorter, by this time, and a bit more fitted, becoming more like the vest used today. The three pieces were considered formal attire, and very fashionable. The three pieces did not have to match and if done right , was very fashionable. Hats were worn as well. Trousers were worn by men still, but were more used for work than for formal attire.
Hair Affair
Wigs were commonly worn by many men. Depending on the style, you could possibly tell a man's profession. As time passed however, the younger men, opted to no longer wear the wigs. These young men preferred displaying their own natural hair.
The Beginning of Fashion Magazines
The first fashion magazine for women in the United States was Godey's Lady's Book (1830-1898) published by Louis A. Godey. It was the most common women's magazine in the 1850s. This magazine provided information about fashion, as well as some articles about health and hygiene, recipes and remedies, and even piano sheet music. This would lead to many new magazines targeting women and their sense of fashion.
Much of what is still covered today's Bazaar magazine, is similar to the first edition of Harper's Bazaar, which was first published on November 2, 1867. It was issued weekly and provided fashion from Germany and Paris. The target audience for this magazine were the middle and upper class women, most of whom could afford the expensive fashions. This magazine is still in print today.
As time changes, so do the things that help define who a generation is. Fashion will always be something that helps define a generation, or time period. It's always fun to look back and see where we've come from, and perhaps, imagine what will be thought of our fashion to future generations.